Jotunheimen

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The mountain range Jotunheimen is located ~350 km north of Oslo, Norway. The summits are ~2000 m or more above sea level, and there are quite a number of smaller glaciers in the area. Most of Jotunheimen has status as National Park, which means that special environmental regulations apply, the most important one being that no motor vehicles are allowed. This makes Jotunheimen ideally suited for hikers and climbers that enjoy the experience of basically undisturbed nature.

The Norwegian Tourist Association (DNT) maintains a number of mountain lodges in the area, where those who don't want to camp can spend the nights at a very reasonable price. However, the accommodation standard is below that of normal hotels, and there are few rooms with less than four beds. So if you're in a party with fewer people than that, you must be prepared to share your room with strangers. Most of the lodges also provide good quality meals. Some are on a self service basis, i.e. there are supplies for sale, but you have to cook yourself. In addition to the DNT accomodation, a few lodges run by private enterprise are available, the standard varies.

The DNT also maintains a net of marked hiking routes representing various degrees of physical challenge. The easiest ones run in the valleys at ~900 - 1500 m from one lodge to another, others lead you to the highest peaks and along the steepest ridges.

As opposed to National Parks in other countries, you are by no means obliged to stick to the marked routes. Norway has a special law granting everyone the right to unobstructed hiking anywhere in forest and mountain areas, regardless of ownership to the land, as long as you leave nature in the same condition as when you came. As far as natural areas are concerned (i.e. not fields, gardens etc.), and provided you're on foot, there is no such thing as "no trespassing" in Norway.

If you choose to leave the normal hiking paths in Jotunheimen, however, you should not be a novice to outdoor life. Even in the summer time the weather can change in only few minutes, and if you get lost in rain (or even snow!) and fog the experience can be quite unpleasant. A map of the area, a compass and knowing how to use those items is a must! But anyway, the most undisturbed nature and some of the most spectacular experiences are (of course!) found off-route....

You should not rely on cellular phones, walkie-talkies etc. for emergency communication. The mountains block the radio waves in most cases except up on the highest peaks, and for environmental reasons all link stations are located outside Jotunheimen.

Glittertind is the second highest mountain in Norway, with its 2464 m it loses only by 5 m to the highest, Galdhøpiggen. The summit of Glittertind is covered by glacier, but not a dangerous one, and no guide or glacier equipment is required for the nice and fairly easy trip to the top. The view is very nice, but in my opinion not the most spectacular in the area. Glittertind can be reached in a few hours from one of the lodges Glitterheim or Spiterstulen. The picture is taken from the south, the Glitterheim side.

The hike along Besseggen is perhaps the most famous mountain trip in Norway. It goes from Gjendesheim over Veslefjell along a quite narrow ridge at ~1700 m down to Memurubu (sounds African, but isn't!). Along the ridge you have a spectacular view of the deep green lake Gjende at 984 m on your left, the blue lake Bessvatn at 1373 m on your right. One disadvantage with this route is that it can become rather crowded during the high season in summer! Also, if you tend to get dizzy when looking down, you should consider walking it in the opposite direction of that described here.

Another mountain worth visiting is Surtningssui, about six hours walk along a path in a scenic valley from Memurubu. The summit of Surtningssui is at 2368 m, and the view in all directions is very beautiful. Only a short section of the route about 1 km from the top is quite steep. But when you reach there, you look straight down into a deep abyss to a glacier on the east side! Picture from the south, taken on the lesser used of two paths to Surtningssui.

Bukkehø is a mountain 2314 m high, to which no marked route leads, but still within the capabilities of most "medium experienced, medium fit" mountain hikers. The easiest way up goes from Geitsætri on the road between Bøverdalen and Leirvassbu. The worst part of going to Bukkehø is that you must cross the river Søndre Illåi, which runs quite rapid. Sometimes there is a "bridge" of remaining snow / ice you can cross. If not, you should go as far upstream as possible before you attempt crossing. Preferably, use a rope securing you to a companion. Trine owes her life to a rope used crossing this river further down, in another context than Bukkehø. After crossing the river, you go up a steep ridge, and then a less steep slope eastwards to the summit. The shape of Bukkehø resembles that of Surtningssui, with a partly overhanging east wall. If you like climbing, the route up this wall is said to be quite a challenge.

Skarstind at 2373 m is a fascinating mountain, the only one in this summary to which I haven't been myself so far. An attempt in the summer of 1994 failed, mostly because the (unmarked) route was inaccurately described in the guidebook we used, and we didn't find the right way up until it was too late in the day. The picture shows me at the edge of the glacier below Skarstind. As my clothing indicates, some days get quite warm in summer even here!

Last update 23-06-1995 by Jon Wikne,